PEACHES

CRISP PORK WITH SWEET PEACH SALSA and A SALAD OF PEACHES, MOZZARELLA, AND BASIL

“Grown on a tree older than its owner, its skin is covered in fine gray down. And that for me is the point of the peach and why I hold its qualities above those of the nectarine- the feel of the peach’s soft fuzz on first my upper and then my lower lip, the way the skin puckers as I bite, a teasing prelude to the sweet flesh that will follow. And all this before the juice-sweet, cool, sensuous-even touches my tongue.”- Nigel Slater

The perfect peach…

Have you had one? If your mouth doesn’t salivate and your pupils dilate when I ask you to consider this question, I’m left no choice but to doubt your experience with the most decadent and sensuous fruit in existence (figs are tied maybe?) A good peach- a really, really, truly good peach is one that you hold in the whole palm of your hand. It has a fuzzy dust on it that once washed off reveals fiery colors that are layered upon each other, like washing off an antique jewel; Red, orange, pink, crimson, yellow, gold. The peach is the sunflower of fruit. Classic, classy, timeless, non-imitable. This pleasure comes only but a few times a year- With a paper towel in one hand and a fleshy peach in the other; sticky sweet juice dripping down your chin and arm- a smile filled with ecstasy and complete drunkenness on your face- THIS is my idea of a good peach. My ideas on religion and the man upstairs is a long story, but I will tell you that when I eat this perfect peach I without fail will exclaim “OH MY GOD” to company, myself, or to the peach. 

With all that said, it’s quite hard to peel, slice, pit, and cook something already so perfect just the way it is; picked right off a knobby branch in the middle of a sunset-tinted orchard, my toes blanketed in thick cool grass. But when flipping through Nigel Slater’s book “RIPE” (my bible), I couldn’t help but be in awe of his peach pairings and recipes. He suggests “nestling next to the crisp skin of a roast chicken salad or perhaps cold ham or hot roast guinea fowl; stuffed with mascarpone or ricotta or amoretti; or simply nudging a few slices of Parma ham and a fistful of spiky-leaved arugula.” He will “broil them, stuffed with cream cheese and glazed with molten sugar, bake them with almonds and honey, and poach them with honey and a drop of rose water”. Occasionally, he will “tuck them into the cream filling of a meringue with passion fruit or raspberries or add them to a salad of wine-dark cherries.”

My initial reaction was extreme intimidation of this hyper decadence; It seemed impossible and over the top. But I hate that word impossible. So, mozzerella, prosuitto, AND a crème fraiche dressing? CRAZY, but I did it. I just decided, you know what? The peach IS incredibly decadent. It is the most deserving of fruit if you ask me. How delicate and penetrable a peach’s flesh is and how susceptible it is to everything from weather, to animals, to sunshine, to insects…Yet it hangs there and delivers my most favorite flavor in the universe. It tastes of honey, flowers, and sunshine. If I was going to “cook” or do anything with these peaches, hell, they deserved the most deliciously decadent dishes out there. So here they are: Don’t be discouraged. If you’re on a diet, make an exception. Just this once…Summer comes but once a year. Peach season comes but only for a few weeks, and that perfect peach is but a glimpse into Eden.

 A SALAD OF PEACHES, MOZZARELLA, AND BASIL

 Enough for 4

Splendidly ripe peaches- 4

Parma ham (prosciutto) - 16 thin slices

Mozzarella- 2 large balls

Salad leaves- 4 handfuls

For the dressing

White or tarragon wine vinegar- 1 T

Olive oil- 4 T

Crème fraiche- 2 T

Basil leaves- about 20

Slice the peaches in half, pull out the pits, and slice each half into three. Divide the parma ham among four plates, tear the balls of mozzarella in half, and place a half on each plate.

Make the dressing by putting the vinegar in a small bowl and stirring in a pinch of sea salt. Gently beat in the olive oil and crème fraiche to give a creamy dressing. Tear the basil leaves and stir them I, then season with coarsely ground black pepper. Toss the salad leaves in the dressing and add to the plates, tuck in the peaches, and serve.

CRISP PORK BELLY, SWEET PEACH SALSA 

 (I had a hard time obtaining pork belly, so I went with pork tenderloin. Of course it was insanely delicious, but I did miss out on the “crispy” part. I even considered wrapping some crispy bacon around the tenderloin to achieve this textural contrast, but didn’t have time. If you can get the belly, DO IT. If not, tenderloin will suffice.)

 Enough for 4

Pork belly- 2 to 3 pounds, boned, skin intact and finely scored. (I used about 2.5 pounds of tenderloin)

For the rub

3 garlic cloves

2 T light soy sauce

2 T peanut oil

2 t salt

½ t dried chile flakes

A heaping teaspoon of Chinese five-spice powder

For the peach salsa

2 green onions

A small red chile

3 peaches

8-10 cherry tomatoes

A small bunch of cilantro

Juice from 2 limes

3 T olive oil

(FOR PORK BELLY) Put the pork in a chine or glass dish. Peel and crush the garlic to a paste, stirring in the soy, oil, salt, chili flakes, and five-spice powder. Spread this paste over the skin and underside of the pork and leave it to marinate for a good four hours, if not overnight.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Place the pork in a roasting pan, then cook, skin-side up, for about twenty minutes. Lower the heat to 400 degrees and continue cooking for forty to fifty minutes longer, until he skin is dark and crisp. Leave to rest for ten minutes before carving.

(FOR TENDERLOIN) Wash tenderloins and pat dry. Remove excess fat and silver skin.

Sprinkle tenderloins all over with garlic paste, soy, oil, salt, chile flakes, and five-spice powder. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the tenderloins on all sides, about 6-8 minutes total.

Transfer the tenderloins to foil lined baking pan. Transfer to the oven and bake for about 20 minutes or until an instant read thermometer reads 145-150 degrees. 

MAKE THE SALSA

Trim and finely chop the green onions. Finely chop the chile. Peel, pit, and finely chop the peaches and tomatoes and chop the cilantro. Toss gently, then dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Serve the pork with the salsa.