Saturday, September 21, 2013

Darlin' Doe Goat Meatballs with Real Live Amazing Food Co. Cheese



I’m no travel extraordinaire, but I’ve been around. There are little food utopias scattered across the world including all these “up and coming cities and neighborhoods” that are finally realizing how not just beneficial but BEAUTIFUL farming is and in a broader sense how satisfying and inspirational a grow/nurture/consume relationship is. To know exactly where your food is coming from and maybe even brush the hand of the farmer who put that seed in the ground is comforting and humbling. To garden or farm yourself turns you into this proud super human. You learn not just the gifts but the difficulties that nature hands you and the balance of each which creates this mass of gratitude and appreciation. You get to nurture your body with the fruit of your wisdom and hard work.
 Being born and raised on MPO, I’ve always known this feeling and have never for one second taken that for granted (in all seriousness). I feel like the luckiest girl when I think of the journey the apple has made. I put the tree in the ground as a 10 year old when I had my first sip (thermos) of coffee and ran around the orchard fifty times screaming like a monster child. Now I sit down, a woman, with a glass of wine, the most perfect apple I could find, some camembert, and a knife; with Billy Holiday on the record player and think how close I feel to the whole practice and idea. My mom tells embarrassing stories about my diapers as a baby because of my fruit and vegetable consumption. In every photo of me as a baby you can spot berry stains on my chin and cheeks and dirt on my knees and hands. I broke up with a boy once because he didn’t like fruit. It is my life; I’m not ashamed to admit it.

So this grow/nurture/consumer relationship with produce has always been in me. Something new I’ve come to really really appreciate is that same relationship with meat. I feel so incredibly lucky that local, grass-fed, free-range, organic meat is so readily available around here not only from markets or grocers, but at most restaurants. I can confidently and comfortably go into my favorite restaurants and know that the pork, chicken, lamb, beef, duck, whatever came from somebody I most likely know, close by. It’s incredible! (If you haven't eaten at Elephant, you're missing out).

I realize this is a touchy subject with people and I really hope to not to offend anybody.
I’d say the majority of my friends are vegetarian or extremely selective with meat consumption. My brother had been a vegetarian since he was pretty little up until recently. He decided he would only eat what he has killed himself. He started with squirrels, chickens, turkeys, deer, and even a snapping turtle. We’re now raising two pigs named Tony and Carmella who will eventually be turned into meat. I see these pigs on a daily basis and I’ll tell you, they are living the life. The TV show Portlandia cleverly makes fun of this whole idea, but it’s 100% valid and important.

Dana Gentile of Darlin’ Doe Farm in Germantown has been a friend of ours for a while now. She raises goats for meat and sells locally (at our farm market on Saturdays). I had never bought meat from her until this year, don’t ask me why. Inspired by a friend, I decided I wanted to make meat balls with the ground goat. I am not lying when I say this was one of the top ten foods I’ve had in my life. I wasn’t alone on this. I HAD to share and encourage you to buy some goat. I did a little Q&A with her to inform you a bit in case it’s new for you too. 


Leisl inhaling the goat stew- Photo by Dana

The setup a the market- Photo by Dana


When was the first time you ate goat? How was it prepared ?

The first time I ate goat was at Applewood, a restaurant in Park Slope, Brooklyn. It was goat stew and I knew from the first bite I was hooked on this lean, delicious red meat.  I also new I wanted to raise my own meat.

What made you decide to raise goats for meat?

I was a vegetarian for eight years and was unable to get enough protein that my body wanted/needed.  When I started to eat meat again I made sure it was the best quality and humanly raised. That was very important to me and still is.  I always wanted to farm as a kid and never thought is could be a reality because I did not grow up on a farm and the only farmers in my background are in Italy.  Since I could not uproot myself across the ocean and learn from my relatives, I decided to come up to the Hudson Valley to learn and deepen my roots here in New York State. 

What nutritional benefits does goat meat have compared to other meats?
Goat meat is higher in protein and iron than beef, pork, lamb and chicken and lower in fat, calories and cholesterol than chicken or turkey.   </p><p>What foods/spices go best with goat? What’s your favorite way to prepare it?
Goat meat is versatile and is eaten by 80% of the world. Every culture has different ways of cooking and spices used.  My favorite is a simple roast with garlic, salt, pepper, olive oil, and rosemary. Another favorite cooking a leg,  Schwarma,  with garlic, salt, cardamon, paprika, cinnamon, cumin, cayenne pepper.

What is their diet like?

Darlin' Doe Farm goats browse pastures and forage in the woodlands of Germantown, NY.  Their favorite plants are poison ivy, sumac, pear tree leaves, and mugwort.  They get fruit and vegetable treats that we grow on the farm such as kale, collards, pears, and asparagus, and of course they get some montgomery place apples.  The goats get a cup of local whole grain feed in the morning to start the day and unlimited hay.  We believe in a natural and holistic approach to raising healthy livestock and have an herbal worming program to balance parasites.

What does  a day in their lives look like on Darlin Doe Farm?

We rise at 6am and I give a cup of local whole grain feed to each goat.  I open the barn to a fenced in pasture that moves around the farm every 3-4 days.  The goats get a lot of attention and love. They like to do tricks and jump on things.  I do as much as I can to make these goats as happy as possible.  We go on hikes through the woods whenever possible.

This recipe was adapted from The Meatball Shop Cookbook using Real Live Amazing Food Co. Farmer’s cheese.

Makes about 1 dozen, 2-inch meatballs

4 T olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 t salt
1 T fresh thyme leaves
1 t sweet paprika
1/4 t crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup REAL LIVE AMAZING FOOD CO. BASIL & HERB FARMER’S CHEESE (or goat cheese)
2 pounds ground goat meat
1/2 cup bread crumbs
2 large eggs

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and use your hand to evenly coat the entire surface. Set aside.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions, 1 teaspoon salt and the thyme. Lower heat to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and nicely browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and place in the refrigerator to cool completely.

Combine cooled onion mixture with remaining ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix by hand until thoroughly incorporated.

Roll the mixture into round, golf ball-sized meatballs (2 2-1/2” thick) making sure to pack the meat firmly. Place the balls in the prepared baking dish, being careful to line them up snugly and in even rows vertically and horizontally to form a grid. The meatballs should be touching one another.
Roast for 20 minutes, or until the meatballs are firm and cooked through. A meat thermometer inserted into the center of a meatball should read 165 degrees.

Allow meatballs to cool for 5 minutes in the baking dish before serving.



Sunday, September 1, 2013

PEACHES



CRISP PORK WITH SWEET PEACH SALSA and A SALAD OF PEACHES, MOZZARELLA, AND BASIL


“Grown on a tree older than its owner, its skin is covered in fine gray down. And that for me is the point of the peach and why I hold its qualities above those of the nectarine- the feel of the peach’s soft fuzz on first my upper and then my lower lip, the way the skin puckers as I bite, a teasing prelude to the sweet flesh that will follow. And all this before the juice-sweet, cool, sensuous-even touches my tongue.”- Nigel Slater




The perfect peach…

Have you had one? If your mouth doesn’t salivate and your pupils dilate when I ask you to consider this question, I’m left no choice but to doubt your experience with the most decadent and sensuous fruit in existence (figs are tied maybe?) A good peach- a really, really, truly good peach is one that you hold in the whole palm of your hand. It has a fuzzy dust on it that once washed off reveals fiery colors that are layered upon each other, like washing off an antique jewel; Red, orange, pink, crimson, yellow, gold. The peach is the sunflower of fruit. Classic, classy, timeless, non-imitable. This pleasure comes only but a few times a year- With a paper towel in one hand and a fleshy peach in the other; sticky sweet juice dripping down your chin and arm- a smile filled with ecstasy and complete drunkenness on your face- THIS is my idea of a good peach. My ideas on religion and the man upstairs is a long story, but I will tell you that when I eat this perfect peach I without fail will exclaim “OH MY GOD” to company, myself, or to the peach. 


With all that said, it’s quite hard to peel, slice, pit, and cook something already so perfect just the way it is; picked right off a knobby branch in the middle of a sunset-tinted orchard, my toes blanketed in thick cool grass. But when flipping through Nigel Slater’s book “RIPE” (my bible), I couldn’t help but be in awe of his peach pairings and recipes. He suggests “nestling next to the crisp skin of a roast chicken salad or perhaps cold ham or hot roast guinea fowl; stuffed with mascarpone or ricotta or amoretti; or simply nudging a few slices of Parma ham and a fistful of spiky-leaved arugula.” He will “broil them, stuffed with cream cheese and glazed with molten sugar, bake them with almonds and honey, and poach them with honey and a drop of rose water”. Occasionally, he will “tuck them into the cream filling of a meringue with passion fruit or raspberries or add them to a salad of wine-dark cherries.”

My initial reaction was extreme intimidation of this hyper decadence; It seemed impossible and over the top. But I hate that word impossible. So, mozzerella, prosuitto, AND a crème fraiche dressing? CRAZY, but I did it. I just decided, you know what? The peach IS incredibly decadent. It is the most deserving of fruit if you ask me. How delicate and penetrable a peach’s flesh is and how susceptible it is to everything from weather, to animals, to sunshine, to insects…Yet it hangs there and delivers my most favorite flavor in the universe. It tastes of honey, flowers, and sunshine. If I was going to “cook” or do anything with these peaches, hell, they deserved the most deliciously decadent dishes out there. So here they are: Don’t be discouraged. If you’re on a diet, make an exception. Just this once…Summer comes but once a year. Peach season comes but only for a few weeks, and that perfect peach is but a glimpse into Eden.

 A SALAD OF PEACHES, MOZZARELLA, AND BASIL

 Enough for 4

Splendidly ripe peaches- 4
Parma ham (prosciutto) - 16 thin slices
Mozzarella- 2 large balls
Salad leaves- 4 handfuls

For the dressing
White or tarragon wine vinegar- 1 T
Olive oil- 4 T
Crème fraiche- 2 T
Basil leaves- about 20

Slice the peaches in half, pull out the pits, and slice each half into three. Divide the parma ham among four plates, tear the balls of mozzarella in half, and place a half on each plate.
Make the dressing by putting the vinegar in a small bowl and stirring in a pinch of sea salt. Gently beat in the olive oil and crème fraiche to give a creamy dressing. Tear the basil leaves and stir them I, then season with coarsely ground black pepper. Toss the salad leaves in the dressing and add to the plates, tuck in the peaches, and serve.


CRISP PORK BELLY, SWEET PEACH SALSA 

 (I had a hard time obtaining pork belly, so I went with pork tenderloin. Of course it was insanely delicious, but I did miss out on the “crispy” part. I even considered wrapping some crispy bacon around the tenderloin to achieve this textural contrast, but didn’t have time. If you can get the belly, DO IT. If not, tenderloin will suffice.)

 Enough for 4


Pork belly- 2 to 3 pounds, boned, skin intact and finely scored. (I used about 2.5 pounds of tenderloin)

For the rub
3 garlic cloves
2 T light soy sauce
2 T peanut oil
2 t salt
½ t dried chile flakes
A heaping teaspoon of Chinese five-spice powder

For the peach salsa
2 green onions
A small red chile
3 peaches
8-10 cherry tomatoes
A small bunch of cilantro
Juice from 2 limes
3 T olive oil

(FOR PORK BELLY) Put the pork in a chine or glass dish. Peel and crush the garlic to a paste, stirring in the soy, oil, salt, chili flakes, and five-spice powder. Spread this paste over the skin and underside of the pork and leave it to marinate for a good four hours, if not overnight.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Place the pork in a roasting pan, then cook, skin-side up, for about twenty minutes. Lower the heat to 400 degrees and continue cooking for forty to fifty minutes longer, until he skin is dark and crisp. Leave to rest for ten minutes before carving.


(FOR TENDERLOIN) Wash tenderloins and pat dry. Remove excess fat and silver skin.
Sprinkle tenderloins all over with garlic paste, soy, oil, salt, chile flakes, and five-spice powder. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the tenderloins on all sides, about 6-8 minutes total.
Transfer the tenderloins to foil lined baking pan. Transfer to the oven and bake for about 20 minutes or until an instant read thermometer reads 145-150 degrees. 

MAKE THE SALSA
Trim and finely chop the green onions. Finely chop the chile. Peel, pit, and finely chop the peaches and tomatoes and chop the cilantro. Toss gently, then dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Serve the pork with the salsa.