PUMPKIN SOUP WITH CREME FRAICHE AND HAZELNUT GREMOLATA WITH A ROASTED PUMPKIN SEED, CRANBERRY, AND GOAT CHEESE ARUGULA SALAD
These days you may hear my mom yell every girl at the market’s name
followed by “get out here right now!”. You might feel awkward by the
anticipation of watching us all get yelled at. Then she’ll throw her hands in the
air and her head back- “look at the light!” she’ll mandate us. The way the
afternoon light hits the trees on 9G around 4 pm is unbelievable. She
goes on to say “see, something to be thankful for” after listening to us all
gush about boys, diets, money problems, etc. I find it impossible not to be
happy this time of year. The sun on the orange, yellow, crimson leaves makes
the air surrounding us golden. leaving feelings of warmth, wealth, and contentment.
Halloween is coming up and that means pumpkin time. It means
mums, Indian corn, apples, cider donuts, cider, pies, scarves, cashmere
sweaters, cool foggy mornings, sun-drenched afternoons, and pink October
sunsets. Neil Young- "Harvest Moon" is played daily in addition to Hocus Pocus. There is lots of cheesy popcorn in bed, cheese and apple plates, and mac n' cheese. It means goldenrod crowns, marigold garlands, coffee with soymilk,
cinnamon and honey, dripping honeycomb on warm buttered toast. The earthy smells mingle with the sweet; summoning
a scent of sugared leather dipped in honey.
I love running around and throwing
myself down in a pile of leaves; just lying there while the foliage floats down
like natural confetti.
Halloween to me will always bring back memories of Jane,
Colette, and Lara’s home on Fraleigh St. Colette though a few months younger
than me was my mentor growing up. She taught me all things magic- fairies,
witches, goblins, ghosts…Her back yard was the most magical nook in Red Hook.
Her mom Jane who passed away a couple years ago was responsible for the most enchanting
yard of flowers, herbs, swings, hammocks. She’d cut our sandwiches in small
triangles and kebob banana slices with mini marshmallows. She’d become a child
long enough to inspire us before returning to being a woman. I’d watch her drink
red wine with dirt under her nails from working; her hair wild and curly
hearing her laugh and think “one day I
want to be just like that”. Halloween meant
popcorn, horror movie marathons, pillow cases of candy, and homemade costumes.
A pack of kids littered across the carpet trading tootsie rolls for blow pops
and a group of best girlfriends in the back- still in costumes doing grown up
things. I like to remember Jane especially on this holiday and thought I’d
share with whoever else knew and misses her. Rest easy Jane...
In honor of Halloween and Jane, I made some pumpkin soup
from Darryl Estrine’s (a
chef/photographer I met doing a shoot for Table Magazine) book “Harvest to Heat”
as well as a salad created around roasted pumpkin seeds (which I looove). This pair tastes like AUTUMN INCARNATE. My Dad felt he was eating the season.
PUMPKIN SOUP WITH CRÈME FRAICHE AND HAZELNUT GREMOLATA
For the gremolata:
¼ cup dry roasted hazelnuts, coarsely ground
Zest from 1 orange
¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
For the soup:
One 2-pound sugar pumpkin, peeled halved and seeded, or 2
cups cooked, pureed pumpkin
4 T unsalted butter
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup hazelnuts, skinned and roasted
1 T canola oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 T fresh lime juice
½ tsp hot sauce
½ cup crème fraiche, for garnish
1. For the gremolata, mix all the ingredients in a small
bowl. Cover and refridgerate until ready to use.
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. If using a whole pumpkin,
lay it cut size up on a roasting pan and put 1 T butter in the center of each
half. Season generously with salt and pepper, cover loosely with aluminum foil,
and roast in the oven until the flesh is very tender, about 40 minutes. When
cool enough to handle, use a kitchen spoon to scoop the pumpkin flesh out and
set aside. Discard skins. In a small coffee grinder or food processor, process
the nuts and oil into a paste.
3. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, melt the remaining 2 T
butter over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic, season with salt and
pepper, and cook stirring until the onions have softened and become
translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the cooked pumpkin and hazelnut-oil
paste. Add the broth and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently to prevent
sticking, about 10 minutes. Season with the lime juice and hot sauce. Carefully
transfer the soup to a blender and liquefy (working in batches if necessary).
Adjust with salt and pepper.
4. Portion the hot soup into 4 bowls, garnish with a
spoonful each of crème fraiche and gremolata, and serve.
FOR THE SALAD:
1. Rinse the seeds in colander and then dry in a kitchen
towel.
2. Toss in a bowl with 1 T olive or pumpkin seed oil,
generous sprinkle of maldon salt, fresh black pepper, and 2 pinches of nutmeg.
Spread out on a cookie sheet and roast next to the pumpkin at 350 degrees F for
about 25-30 minutes.
3. Toss arugula with a quick pour of apple cider vinegar,
olive oil, and about 2 T chevre or fromage blanc
4. Put salad and plate and top with a small handful of
cranberries and pumpkin seeds.
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